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Relatively common behavioral problems in companion cats include a variety of "inappropriate" activities: Elimination , Aggressive Play (biting, scratching) , Aggression, Furniture Scratching, Fearfulness and Excessive Predatory Activity. To convert the undesirable componen(s) of each of these behaviors to a socialy acceptable form, it is helpful to appreciate the developmental aspects of normal feline socialization, beginning in kittenhood. Likewise, it is important to remember that feline behavior is as much rooted in evolution and genetics as in subsequent societal experiences including interactivity with other cats and with humans. (There is, for example considerable evidence for a strong heritable component of "friendliness" and "shyness" and, perhaps somewhat surprisingly, these attributes are predominantly paternal in origin (from the "papa" cat)).

Like previous pages on this web site, this page will progress with serial additions, hopefully on a weekly or biweekly basis, 'til complete. While the information reported here is derived from a multitude of refereed veterinary behavioral resources, a recent book by Karen Overall (Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals, 1997, Mosby-Year Book, Inc.) and articles by Dr. Overall in recent issues of Veterinary Medicine (2&3/98:) each contain a well-written discussions of this subject.

During the first seven or so weeks of life, the queen is the primary caregiver and teacher of her kittens. Besides nursing and stimulating bodily elimination, she shapes and hones early play and social activity, beginning at or around four weeks of age. Through example and through gentle but firm "disciplinary" action, she teaches her kittens what is acceptable (gentle) aspects of social play. Social skills may not fully mature until two to four years of age!

However, the idea that there are "sensitive" (socialization?) periods--.i.e. specific times when animals are best able (and therefore should be given the opportunity) to learn specific and appropriate responses to environmental/ social stimuli, with respect to the cat, is a nebulous concept. There appears to be a great deal of variability between individual kittens within a litter and and among litters. Moreover, it must be understood that even in animals exposed to all appropriate socialization queues, some still develop undesirable behavioral problems. Bearing in mind these limitations, the following statements are generalizations only:

1. The behavioral problems that appear in some measure to be related to early kittenhood experiences include:
   1. Aggression (towards people and/or other cats)
   2. Fearfulness
   3. Inappropriate play activity
   4. Elimination (inappropriate urination and/or defecation)
   5. Oral/dietary indiscretions (chewing or eating inanimate objects such as fabrics, plastics)
   6. Predation
   7. To a much lesser degree than any of the preceding...Furniture Scratching
2. Kittens separated early (~2 weeks of age) from the queen are more likely to become fearful and aggressive as well as respond abnormally to benign objects or situations. Such kittens may show some or all of the following idiosynchrocies:
   1. Display inappropriate play activity, e.g. attack, bite hard, and scratch play objects (such as people or other animals)
   2. Develop heightened predatory activity
   3. Become poor learners...it will be difficult to effect changes via common behavior-modification techniques
3. Kittens that are abandoned or are born to queens who were abandoned will also be poor learners and demonstrate abberrant fears and aggression towards benign objects or situations.
4. Cats that had no contact with people during the first three months of life are fearful and aggressive towards people.

1. Early handling of kitten by several people (during the first two to seven weeks of life) results in markedly less apprehension and fearfulness; animals are more likely to approach and to tolerate unfamiliar objects throughout life
2. The magnitude of fearfulness is in part affected by a paternal genetic factor(s), as well.

5. Scratching is an innate (instinctive) behavior but inappropriate (e.g furniture) scratching behavior can frequently be attenuated with simple human intervention during kittenhood.

6. Elimination (Urination and Defecation) behaviors are affected by maternal inputs, social heirchary, innate and acquired fears, anxiety, aggressiveness

Kittens 5 to 6 weeks old can urinate and defecate independent of maternal stimulation. Some cats cover feces and urine...some do not. This behavior is determined both by individual preference (etiology unclear), whether marking to delineate territorial boundaries or, in core territory elimination areas, to establish or maintain dominance within a group of cats. Submissive cats within a group are more likely to cover their waste. Marking...may be of the spraying or non-spraying varieties. Spraying of urine (cat assumes a posture that directs the urine stream horizontally) is to establish an olefactory signal of an individual's presence. (Cats can distinguish specific urine odors of other individual cats..their sense of smell rivals that of the dog.). Spraying is a socially mediated behavior that, strangely, may be quite common among indiviual animals of a lower status (as well as a characteristic of the bolder, confident cat); this refers to an animal who perceives a (real or unreal) threat or inability to control his interaction with other members of the group or other neighboring group. Non-Spraying marking involves simply urinating or defecating (assuming the normal posture for these functions) in one or many "inappropriate" locations. Like spraying, non-spraying marking serves to establish one's presence but this behavior can easily be confused with other elimination issues (Substrate or Location Aversions or Preferences...to be discussed below), and may represent a greater diagnostic and treatment challenge. Aggression among cats: this is often a queue to spray or mark by both victim AND aggressor animal

In the pet cat, an artificial elimination area (the litter box) is frequently provided. It is important to recognize that there are potential elimination problems associated with the type, texture of litter (known as the "substrate") and the location, size, shape and accessibility of the litter box. Likewise, cleanliness, privacy, the presence and relationship of other cats who might share the facility....these are all factors that bear on the overall issue of...Inappropriate Elimination.

Inappropriate elimination (urination and defecation) ranks as the most frequently presented feline behavioral problem. Sadly, failure to diagnose and to treat the underlying cause(s) frequently leads to a request for euthanasia. The following discussion will focus on inappropriate elimination that is truly behavioral...as apposed to physiological or medical. It is, however, important to understand that a thorough physical exam and laboratory work up may be necessary to rule out the latter.

This problem has been broken into 6 major categories by Dr. Overall. They are related, primarily, either to the type and location of substrate (litter) and then subcategorized by mitigating environmental/social circumstances, or solely to social conflict (or perceived conflict):

• Substrate (or Litter Box) Aversion ...(Urine & Feces)

• Location Aversion...(Urine & Feces)

• Substrate Preference...(Urine & Feces)

• Location Preferences...(Urine & Feces)

• Marking...Non-Spraying...(Urine & Feces)

• Marking...Spraying...(Urine )

Cats can learn to dislike certain substrates because they associate them with undesirable consequences or they inherently dislike the texture, smell or sound (yes...sound) of the litter.

• An undesirable association can me related to a medical (rather than truly a substrate) issue; for example, a cat with a painful urinary tract infection, raging diarrhea or constipation may mistakenly atttribute its discomfort with the use of this litter. Similarly, a recently declawed cat may correctly ascribe its pain from digging to this particular litter, as well.
• Alternatively, a cat may dislike the smell (filth, deodorants, odors related to the presence of other animals), texture (coarse gravel is less desirable than fine, soft prefered to hard), stickiness or moisture content, depth of a particular litter type, size and shape of the litter box (closed vs open, shallow vs deep)
• Some litter contains baking soda or other additives which "fizzle" when moistened. Many cats do not like litter that "talks back".
• Diagnosis of Substrate Aversion.......requires meeting certain criteria:
  1. The cat consistently (not occasionally...) does NOT contact the litter substrate
     1. If the cat has not found an alternative area, it may stand on the edge of the litter box--aim in the general direction of the litter but not touch the litter (may even scratch outside the box when "done")
     2. [ Cats which eliminate next to the litter box,though, may not be experiencing substrate aversion; this may be a sign of Location Aversion...discussed below.]
  2. The cat is tested by offering him or her the offending litter and litter box in another location and there are still signs consistent with aversion (e.g. sniffing the litter or litter box then backing or jumping away).
  3. The cat willingly accepts another..more desirable substrate type (perhaps finer texture, softer, cleaner, deodorant-free) in the original elimination location.

• The location of the elimination "facility" may become unacceptable to a cat. Noises (washer, dryer, water pipes sounds, water-heaters and furnaces clicking on or off, or endless encounters with country or rap music); smells (mustiness) or fear (of other animals, toddlers, intimidating circumstances) are usually at fault. However, in some circumstances, there may be an underlying medical issue, e.g. the litter box is located up or down stairs which are difficult, painful or uncomfortable to traverse
• Where an alternative area is not available, a cat may eliminate next to or sometimes in the litter box. If an alternative location is accessible, the cat may then experiment with an alternative "substrate" (e.g. carpeting, or a different fabric) and develop a secondary Substrate Preference... making the diagnosis and treatment a bit confusing.
• Diagnosis of Location Aversion:

Move the same litter type and litter box to an acceptable (to the cat) area and observe the subsequent response(s).

1. if the cat readily uses the litter and litter box..bingo! You have a diagnosis
2. if in doubt, review the criteria for Substrate Aversion and for Substrate Preference.

• According to Dr. Overall, cats can develop substrate preferences that are or are not preceded by aversion(s). When no behavior indicative of underlying social/environmental stimulus is apparent, then the preference is thought to be innate or serendipidous. In instances where a preference develops secondary to an aversion, then it is likely that the chosen substrate is selected as a consequence of avoidance of the unsuitabe substrate and concurrent experimentation or exploration of new subtrates with, possibly, the discovery of a more desirable, satisfying material. The latter ultimately becomes the "preferred" substrate.

• Alternatively, illness or other circumstances which preclude successful access or use of a prescribed and acceptable littler area (e.g. uncontrollable diarrhea, urinary tract infection, pain associated with climbing up or down stairs) may lead to "accidents" on substrates in places which, then also become "preferred".

• Another point and complication to ponder is the possibility for independent substrate preferences for urination and for defecation. For example, the cat urinates OR defecates in the litter box normally but chooses to perform the other elimination function elsewhere. If in using the alternative substrate (e.g. carpet, bedding) the cat exhibits normal elimination activities (e.g. burying, digging, etc) then likely this other material is the preferred substrate for that particular elimination function.

• Rule out other causes of inappropriate elimination...such as Substrate Aversion, Location Aversion and Location Prefererence by the criteria suggested for the diagnosis of those problems.

• Change the substrate...NOT the location...of the clean litter box to either:

  1. the apparently "preferred" new substrate, OR...

  2. to one of the newer, fine, silaceous clumpable litters

     (Research has demonstrated that even cats NOT exhibiting an elimination problem prefer the softer, clumpable litter types. To prevent subsequent tracking of fine particles through the household, try placing a jute mat under and around the box [...or perhaps try the putative "trackless", clumpable litters]).

• An innately shy or fearful cat may prefer to eliminate in a place that is away from other cats, noise, general areas of activity or areas of perceived vulnerability. Such a preference may or may not be preceded by unpleasant social interactions or experiences.

• Alternatively, a cat may simply prefer a specific location because of the smell, view or mode of access to the facility.

Diagnosis & Treatment of Location Preference...

• While the underlying reason for a location preference may never be fully appreciated, the diagnosis and treatment is straigntforward.

• Rule out Substrate Aversion, Location Aversion and Substrate Preference by the criteria suggested for the diagnosis of those problems.

• Place the litter box with the customary litter substrate (the old stuff) in the preferred location.

  1. if the cat does NOT use the litter box but DOES eliminate next to the box, then retest for a Substrate Preference...but in the preferred, new location
     NOTE: ..A cat can exhibit signs of concurrent location AND substrate preferences!!

  2. Once a bonafide diagnosis of Location Preference is established, ---and if the caretaker perceives that such a preference is based upon the cat's real or perceived social conflicts (e.g. with other cats in the household)---then consider fitting the affected cat with an electronic or magnetic access collar (allowing it only to enter the facility, confident in its privacy)

  3. Make necessary provisions for use of the preferred elimination location!

 

 

 

Substrate Aversion, Substrate Preference, Location Aversion, Location Preference

 

 

Marking....General Properties

Marking by elimination is a normal feline social activity and as such, an effective means to define and delineate once's presence and territorial claims. For most pet cats, the need to mark territority is minimal or non-existent, in comparison to the need in wild cats which must compete amongst themselves. However even in the pet cat, marking occurs and can also represent:

• Aggression.....by an assertive cat or by a timid cat (unable to act assertively within the social environment)

• Anxiety....related to the social system, conflicts within the social system, or to changes or perceived changes within the social order and/or living environment.

Hence, in the pet cat, marking can be perpetrated by a bold, aggressive/assertive animal, or by a timid, shy, anxious "victim" of its social circumstance. Moreover, any type of marking, (Spray Marking or Non-Spray Marking) may result from the same intial provocation or (perceived) unsatisfactory social condition (described further, below). The difference between these two marking behaviors is that the former contains more visual cues than the latter; though there is no reason to presume that a cat always needs or wants "to be watched". In some perverse way, non-spray marking, usually difficult to diagnose, could be viewed as one of Nature's subtle practical jokes on cat-ownerkind ( a behavior whose ..purpose, it appears, is to confuse and abuse veterinarians and cat owners)

Types of Marking

1. Spray Marking: ( the cat raises its tail upwards, and directs urine in a horizontal direction; during which endeavor, the tail "swishes" or "twitches" prominently about. The urine may land on and dribble down from a horizontal surface or if no horizontal surface is present, then urine, rather than appearing as a neat "puddle", appears as a narrow, elongated "stream").

• In the bold cat, occurs as visually and/or olefactory cue to other potential or imaginary animals in a declaration or "boast of its presence, position and territorial claims or agenda..i.e it is advertising its prowess and daring.

• Spraying is often, itself, an openly aggressive act... both by perpetrator/aggressor and by victim cats

• In cats ill-suited to fighting or anxious cats, spraying, nevertheless, occurs though usually when the provoking animal(s), to whom such behavior is directed, is no longer a threat. Thus, while the bolder cat may boast via spraying, the timid cat sprays as

  • a passive threat (vs direct confrontation) or response to a physical threat;

  • a response to the presence of another cat's scent in the absence of physical contact;

  • a response to anxiety or fear (i.e. spraying as a non-aggressive act).

2. Non-Spray Marking: (urination AND/ OR defection in one or more places not customarily used or ...considered inappropriate for normal elimination function)

• Can occur alone or with spray marking and is prompted by many of the same circumstances as Spray Marking.

• Diagnosis:

  1. Is easily confused with location or substrate preference or location aversion behavior. The tests to diagnose the other elimination behaviors should be performed before considering that a cat is non-spray marking.

  2. More strongly....the discovery of evidence of social discord (e.g. the cat is aware that a new cat or neighboring cat comes to outside of the window or door and elimination product (either urine or feces or both) is found on the inside of this (and not in another inappropriate) area) AND tests for the other behavioral elimination disorder are unequivocally NEGATIVE....this is a priori evidence that non-spraying marking is present

Treatment of Marking Behavior

Odor Removal...Behavioral Modification....Pharmacological Intervention
Substrate Aversion....Substrate Preference.... Location Aversion.... Location Preference

The specific diagnosis and therapeutic approaches to substrate and location elimination disorders have already been discussed. The following recommendations pertain primarily to marking behavior; however, certain components of these may be included in the plan or plans for dealing with non-marking elimination issues.

1. It is always appropriate and essential to Remove the Odor, which can otherwise act as an elimination stimulus and frustrate the overall treatment approach.

• If carpeting is effected, then the carpet, pad and subflooring need to be deodorized or removed.

1. Alternatively, if treatment/removal of carpet and underlying structures is not possible, then cover the affected area with a barrier, such as heavy plastic or paint (e.g. the subflooring).
2. Deodorize!! This can not be overemphasized. Some products available commercially include Elimin-Odor®, The Equalizer™, K.O.E.™ and Anti-IckyPoo®

2. Behavioral Modification

Timely "intervention"--that is when a cat is exhibiting premonitory behavior indicating impending inappropriate elimination such as:

1. Change in facial expression, such as:
   Sniffing, scratching, turning around in a small area
   
2. then…it is appropriate to startle (e.g. handclap, hiss) to interrupt the behavior
3. It is essential that the startle intervention occur during or within 30-60 seconds of the elimination sequence.

   It is of NO VALUE to act anytime after this period!

   Using a bell (on a breakaway collar) may help the owner know where the cat is at any given moment and thus signal the owner that impending elimination activity may be occurring.

4. Where marking is related to the heirchal social order within a multicat household, the following rules of thumb may be tried:

The animal that is higher ranking is isolated in a "lower quality" room, where "quality", in this context, is determined by the social attributes such as

• Access to perches
• Access to humans
• Access to windows
• "lower quality " rooms are not preferred but are physically comfortable (NOT a damp, dark, cold basement or garage).

The animal that is lower ranking (i.e. unable to assert itself--is anxious, or uncomfortable within the social order) is isolated in a higher status area.

• The esteem of the lower ranking cat is bolstered, fear and anxiety are reduced.
• The other cats in the household are aware that this animal is allowed access to a higher quality area.
• The elimination behaviors during the isolation are monitored; when each cat is using an appropriate substrate, then it is released for short periods of gradually increasing duration.

• Initially, with a bell attached (on a breakaway collar) in a limited area while the owner is present
• If necessary, startle-interrupt inappropriate elimination or aggressive behavior (as described above)

Where intercat aggression within the multicat household is the root of the inappropriate elimination, then any or all of the following suggestions may be tried:

• Isolate cats (if of equal status' then to neutral or low quality areas) as described earlier
• Rewards…..put cats on leashes and allow them to see each other. Reward (treats, pet, scratch, praise) when:
  • Cat does NOT react to other cat
  • Cat reacts nicely to other cat
  • Cat looks away from other cat
  • Cat is quiet and calm
• Countercondition/Desensitization:
  • Allow cats to see each other (crates, leashes)…at a distance where they do not react
  • Gradually, shorten the distance..over hours or days to distance that is barely tolerated until is it completely tolerated.
  • Play games with each cat in the presence of the other cat (each cat learns that pleasure comes even when the "objectionable" cat is present).

3. Pharmacological Intervention:

When the cause of spraying/marking is diagnosed early and appropriate modification in the physical and behavioral environments are quickly instituted, as described above, no additional intervention is usually required. In most instances, however, there is a need for concurrent use of drugs along with behavioral/environmental modification approaches. Drugs most frequently employed by veterinarians belong to one of four classes: 1. Benzodiazepines; 2. Butyrophenones; 3. Tricyclic Antidepressants; 4. Serotonin Reuptake Inhibitors.

• Benzodiazepines :

• the most commonly used example is diazepam; another is alprazolam
• controls spraying in about 75% of cats
• MOA: amplifies the effects of an inhibitory neurotransmitter....cats become less anxious and are less reactive to their surroundings and social interactions, including aggressive housemates. Does NOT work if cat is the aggressor and is of high social ranking
• may be required lifelong to control behavior
• Side Effects:
  1. possible drug dependency or tolerance (not proved, though)
  2. staggered gait (temporarily)
  3. liver toxicity and death have been reported sporadically with name brand (Valium^® ) or generic brands of drug
  4. may worsen aggressive behavior in an aggressive animal (decreases inhibitions)

• Butyrophenones :

• most common example is buspirone (Buspar^® )
• works best where there is clear social conflict root cause...especially where the marking animal is the aggressor (benzodiazepines should NOT be used in these cats)
• efficacy seems to be greater than 50% though some report better than 75%
• MOA: not fully established; may work by actions on mood-altering neurotransmitters such as serotonin and dopamine (the mechanism is different than for benzodiazepines)
• side effects: occasionally, there is transient enhancement of aggressive behavior, which is short lived

• Tricyclic Antidepressants:

• amitryptylline and clomipramine are the most effective drugs for inapprorpiate elimination in this class; other realted drugs do not work!
• efficacy is unclear; there are, however, a number of anecdotal reports extolling the therapeutuc bebefits of these drugs
• MOA: affects several mood-altering neurotransmitter levels, resulting in decreased anxiety
• Contraindications:
  1. glaucoma or urinary retension
  2. seizures and/or concurrent anticonvulsant medication
  3. concurrent use of drugs classified as monoamine oxidase inhibitors (in veterinary medicine the most common of these is amitraz [Mitoban^® ] for treatment of demodectic mange or selegiline [Anipril^® or Deprenyl^® ] for treatment of Cushing's Disease or Cognitive Disorder)
  4. liver disease
  5. cardiac (heart) arrythmias
• Side effects:
  1. increased drinking, urination
  2. cardiac arrythmias (rare)
  3. vomiting or diarrhea
  4. electrolyte (primarily sodium) disorders
  5. increased excitability OR lethargy

• Serum Serotonin Reuptake Inhibitors (SSRIs):

• commonly used antidepressant drugs are Prozac^® and Paxil^®
• efficacy..is not fully estanlished at this time but there are encouraging anecdotal reports of success in controlling elimination disorders with these drugs
• MOA: mood elevation by increasing the availability and duration of effects of serotonin, a mood-enhancing neurotransmitter
• Side effects: no information is yet available regarding side effects with these drugs in cats.

• Clip claws frequently (remember...one of reasons cats scratch is to remove nail sheaths)

• Do NOT allow jumping on moving (i.e "dragged") fabrics (e.g. clothing, string, laces)

• Startle pre-scratching behavior (e.g sniffing, rubbing and lowering head) OR scratching in progress ..via loud noise, water spray, water pistol. VERY IMPORTANT: be sure that the startle is NOT associated with the owner (the cat should not know where the startle originated).

(return to play aggression)

• Booby Trap ...if an inappropriate scratching is occuring while the owner is away (and the cat can not be confined) then the inapropriate substrate can be set to self-startle the cat when the inappropriate behavior is in progress..and thus offer deterrent from future incursions there. Affix the "deterrant" to the inappropriate substrate. Examples of booby trapping devices follows (but you can also use your imagination). Please...be sure your device will not cause undue injury psychological harm

1. Pull string firecrackers (from novelty stores)

2. Balloons

3. Upside-down cocked mouse traps (on horizontal substrates)

• Application of plastic nail sheaths ( Soft Paws®) every 6-8 weeks to eliminate or reduce damage from nappropriate scratching

• Tendonectomy

• Onychectomy (Declaw)

• Play Aggression:

1. flattening of the ears against the head

2. twitching of the tail

3. unsheathing of the claws

4. It is interesting that some of the more worrisome play-aggression postures may actually bear unnerving similarity to those described below for Fear Aggression.

• Fear Aggression:

• Ordinarily a fearful cat will flee or hide from a perceived danger

• If a cat...any cat...is placed in circumstances of shrinking space (backed into a corner; no escape route), it will assume a defensive attack posture

• Flattening of the ears against the head

• Crouching, with the head drawn close to the body

• Rolling on the back (this is NOT a submissive posture!!!)